I had the recent pleasure of spending a week in the spectacularly picturesque town of Calella de Palafrugell, on the northeast coast of Spain. Why this area is so often overlooked in favor of Spain’s more visible destinations (ahem, I’m looking at you, Costa del Sol) is beyond me. Located just an easy hour’s drive from Barcelona, Costa Brava is now one of my favorite European destinations. 

My son and I stayed in a cozy and quaint Airbnb on the south end of this charming town. A 15-minute walk put us in the center of town, where there was an abundance of restaurants, cafes, shops, and groceries. One of our favorite places to eat was Calau, a popular Catalan restaurant offering delicious and varied choices of locally sourced tapas filled with veggies, meat, and fish. Each tapas is served with a price-coded toothpick. A cup full of discarded toothpicks at the end of the meal determines the amount of your bill (and how much you ate). 

Located just steps from our apartment was the Cami de Ronda, a 43-kilometer, self-guided footpath that runs along the coastline (for the most part) and intersects briefly with the GR92 (a larger network of hiking trails found throughout Spain). This hike alone is reason enough to visit Costa Brava. The up-and-down terrain includes hidden coves with private beaches, sweeping forests, ancient lighthouses, charming beach towns, and stunning ocean views. I hiked 10 km north one day to the town of Tamariu and the next day south 16 km to a beautiful, deserted beach just south of the bustling city of Palamos. Luckily, my son was available to pick me up each time so I could make it an accessible one-way journey. 

 

Another day I devoted myself to visiting three incredible medieval villages located in the vicinity; Pals, Peratallada, and Ullastret. Each town offered its own distinct flavor and history, but all three can trace their lineage back to the 9th century. It was quite a thrill for this history nerd to wander the cobblestone streets and wonder about all the humanity that has passed along here through the veil of time. 

 

The hardest part about visiting Costa Brava is deciding which charming town to consider as a home base. Perhaps the best option is to hike the Cami de Ronda in its entirety, thereby affording the opportunity to see it all!