“George Washington really did sleep there,” says historian Nic Butler about Hampton Plantation, not far from McClellanville. The President visited the area during his triumphal 1791 tour of the South, and was hosted by gracious Eliza Lucas Pinckney. Her handsome, Georgian-style house was built circa 1735 and, although its fortunes took a nosedive in the 19th Century, the last descendent-resident, Archibald Rutledge, kept it going before handing it on to the care of South Carolina Department of Parks in 1971.

 

It’s both fun and enlightening to take day trips like this from downtown to explore the countryside. Centuries of history have left their mark along the South Carolina coast, from the old rice plantations to picturesque fishing ports, and from well-preserved little parish churches to moss-hung stately oaks shading quiet marshes. But hurry, developers are paving over every inch of green space they can grab. And don’t forget your insect repellant.

 

One of my favorite treks is up the King’s Highway (a.k.a. Route 17), to Hampton, an hour or so north of Charleston. En route closer to town is The Center for Birds of Prey, in Awendaw, where tours include viewing of more than 40 species of majestic raptors - from eagles to vultures, owls to falcons. At this avian conservation center, experts bring rescued birds back to health and teach visitors about the role they play in our ecosystem. On certain days they offer flight demonstrations - a super show for children. Info is on the website: thecenterforbirdsofprey.org

 

If you keep heading north, just outside Murrells Inlet you’ll get to Brookgreen Gardens, a marvelous, expansive sculpture and botanical garden plus a zoo. Many of the artworks are by Anna Hyatt Huntington, wife of the founder. She and her New Yorker husband transformed about 9,000 acres of former plantation land and opened this property in the 1930s.

 

Double back to Hampton where the park rangers only give tours of the house a couple of times a day so it is worth checking the website or phoning before heading there.

www.southcarolinaparks.com/hampton. (843) 546-9361.

 

While visiting Hampton, the President was asked whether a certain oak tree in front should be cut down to create a better view from the portico. He replied that he liked the tree, and it was saved, so the story goes. From then on it’s been known as the Washington Oak. The tour guides have lots of information to share. In the little shop on the property, I found a fetching sweetgrass basket made by a local artisan as well as an enchanting book by Archibald Rutledge, who was the Poet Laureate of South Carolina. Home by the River recounts the bittersweet return to his childhood home and affectionate reunion with the former enslaved folks who had remained on the plantation.

 

Not far away is the handsome brick church at Wambaw, St. James Santee, circa 1768, which now seems to be in the middle of nowhere but is a well-preserved reminder this was once a thriving Huguenot colony of plantations. Nowadays a service is held here only once a year. It is on the unpaved road that probably resembles the King’s Highway as it was during Colonial days. Nic Butler told us that the President’s horse-drawn carriage could only progress about 10 miles per day on such a journey down to Charleston.

 

By now you’ve worked up an appetite just in time to stop in McClellanville, the picturesque fishing village with its delicious, down-home restaurant, T.W. Graham & Co. Specializing in local seafood and Lowcountry fare, it’s in a former storefront a few blocks from the shrimp boat docks.

“Those shrimp were just pulled this morning,” our server proudly told us as we dug into a pile of the sweet, lightly fried shellfish. Save room for one of their homemade pies. Telephone: (843) 887-4342.